![]() 05/11/2018 at 13:00 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Just need to transfer parts to the new oil pan, clean everything, and reassemble! More pics and info/story this time, continuation from my post the other day. Less cryptic this time!
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Normally I don’t stack parts like this, but there is literally no safer place or way to do it because there are just so many
Bottom front of M178 engine without oil pan
Bottom rear of M178 without oil pan
Underside of AMG GT-S sans drivetrain
AMG GT-S front subframe with attached steering rack (hydraulic, FYI) and sway bar
Power steering pump > hockey puck > AC compressor
Old pan on the left, new on the right, various other things
So, the story, this is actually the same car that I had the turbos out of a little while back. It never left.
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Reason being, went to change oil after doing all of the other work and found some gorilla had stripped the oil drain plug threads right out of the pan. Bureaucracy ensues, parts are ordered, time passes, and I was finally able to start working on it earlier this week.
Anyways, rumor is that this was an exotic track rental in Vegas. Which explains the abuse, poor workmanship, and high miles.
Why not heli-coil or time-sert the pan you ask? Three reasons. A: material around the hole is too thin and has an extremely high likelihood of cracking. B: liability in the event of a leak. C: MB said no and would probably void any future engine related warranty claims.
So to actually remove the oil pan on this car:
Remove battery and store in safe place because Li-ion
Remove all underpanels
Remove complete cat back exhaust
Remove transmission
Remove torque tube
Remove intercoolers
Install jig and suspend engine so I don’t get crushed when I pull the subframe out
Remove front subframe
Remove alternator, PS pump, AC compressor, and crank pulley
I can hear you wondering why so much. Don’t worry, I’m getting there. The rear main seal on this engine (and most Mercedes actually) is not just a seal pressed into the back of the block. There’s a cover that bolts onto the back of the block that the seal is pressed into. I’m sure google could assist you if you can’t picture it. There are two bolts that go into the back of the oil pan through this rear cover on this engine. Which is different from most in that the others have two bolts going up from the bottom so you don’t have to pull the transmission to do the oil pan.
You might also be wondering about the hockey puck, PS pump, and AC compressor setup. It’s done this way packaging reasons. AC compressor is belt driven. PS pump is mounted backwards and coupled to AC by the hockey puck.
Worst thing about this? I already had a bunch of this stuff out or lose for the work I did previously, so I get to do it all again! Yay
![]() 05/11/2018 at 13:09 |
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This is exactly why I couldn’t own another German car, I mean the VW’s I owned were bad enough. It makes me sad to wonder what happens to these amazing machines by 3rd owner and 20 years. Junk pile I guess.
Also I thought this
Remove all underpanels
was this
Remove all underpants
Was wonder what kind of shop you were running over there.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 13:15 |
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This doesn’t happen when competent people service them though. There are so many signs on this car that whoever serviced it before was a complete and total hack and should go back to mopping bathrooms at 7-11.
Underpants removal comes later, followed by bending over. Those follow me trying to get paid properly.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 13:28 |
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I get scared at brake jobs. Get’er done.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 13:28 |
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Replace the rear main seal whilst it’s all apart? How many book hours for all of this?
![]() 05/11/2018 at 13:49 |
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![]() 05/11/2018 at 13:51 |
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Yeah, front and rear crank seals. Basically a complete bottom end reseal. 30 hours.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 14:10 |
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It sounds like a lot, but looking it over again, it isn’t all that different than the proper procedure for removing an oil pan on most FR vehicles I’ve owned (except that jig!) . I’ve done the “forum method” of lifting the engine up by a minimum amount to drop a pan, and it’s hateful, filled with swearing and bloodied knuckles every time.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 14:24 |
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You are very brave. Any hope of getting it done under flat rate?
![]() 05/11/2018 at 14:31 |
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No idea at this point. I’m at about 12 hours working time, but going back together is slower. It pays 30. I think I’ll be right there or a little over when it’s all said and done.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 14:32 |
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That’s an impressive job. I’m hoping you get to test it all once it’s reassembled? That will be satisfying at least.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 14:34 |
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I’ll make sure to get a picture of the jig and post it later. This is the first oil pan I know of that requires transmission removal though, torque tube or not. This would absolutely max out RevZilla’s beard scale of difficulty, if not break it. I’ve lost some blood on it already.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 14:50 |
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I guess it isn’t a REQUIREMENT on the S2000 (at least with the V161 trans) or Miata... but taking the engine out to do it usually means trans comes off anyway.
Pretty sure there’s still some DSMs rolling around with pentagrams drawn inside the bell-housings in my blood.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 14:59 |
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That’s good maintenance, though. Are you a dealership tech? So what’s that job, like $6k?
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:07 |
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Certainly. Lots of miles will need to be logged to ensure its all good.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:08 |
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You’re speaking Japanese to me!
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:09 |
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Just need to transfer parts to the new oil pan,
Hit it with a 300 shot of nitrous. Works every time.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:10 |
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Yup, I am. Our stuff doesn’t really leak, so I doubt this would’ve been necessary for a very long time if some idiot hadn’t been changing the oil before. But honestly no idea what the dollar amount is.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:11 |
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And most of them probably cost less than the replacement cost on that torque tube lol
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:12 |
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Good plan! The parts should fly right off in no time!
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:13 |
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Apparently the full carbon torque tube in the SLS black and GT-R is upwards of 60k.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:17 |
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hmmm.... Carry the one, round up, double check maths...
Yep, that’s more than my whole stable currently cost me.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:19 |
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I’m glad you used your engineer brain to do that math. It’s way over my head.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:23 |
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60k doesn’t surprise me though, for a CF piece that big.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:23 |
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What’s the hourly labor rate?
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:26 |
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Yeah especially considering the load it has to endure. And that there are bearings in it. Etc. Little more complex than your average carbon trim piece.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:29 |
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Cool stuff. I really like the setup with the A/C and PS pump
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:38 |
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Best of luck
![]() 05/11/2018 at 15:41 |
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I’m surprised there haven’t been more comments on that. Everyone in the shop thought it’s really interesting and with more comment than most of this.
![]() 05/11/2018 at 16:01 |
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![]() 05/12/2018 at 07:14 |
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as they say, Mercedes - engineered like no other